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History of Silk

 

Silk, with its shimmer and lustre no other fabric can match the qualities of this rich fabric

Ah! Silk!

What could anyone say about these sensuous strands except may be that silk is silk is silk! The most loved fibre the world over, silk spells luxury, elegance and class. With its unparalleled grandeur, the silk fabric has reigned as the undisputed ‘queen of textiles’ over the centuries. Natural sheen, inherent affinity for dyes and rich colors, high absorbance, light weight (yet stronger than a comparable filament of steel), poor heat conduction (warm in winter, cool in summer), low static current generation (does not let dust adhere to it), resilience and excellent drape are some of its irresistibly endearing qualities. Chemically, silk is a continuous protein filament about one-and-a-half kilometer in length secreted by particular types of moth’s caterpillars commonly known as silkworms. The two main substances that constitute the silk filament are the fibroin that forms the core and sericin, which insulates the core.

Long long ago, and not so long ago..

Sericulture is an ancient industry in India, dating back to at least the second century B.C. According to some historians, raw silk was exported from India to Rome during the reign of Kanishka in 58 B.C. In its long history, sericulture has passed through periods of great prosperity as well as decline. During the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries sericulture flourished in the states of the then Bengal, Mysore and Kashmir. When the Second World War ended in the mid-1940’s, the silk industry slumped as war related silk consumption, mainly for making parachutes, ceased abruptly. Efforts of the Govt. of India in the post-independence period paved the way for its resurgence – its growth has been rapid, especially during the last two decades.

Advantage, India

Endowed with salubrious climate and rich sericigenous fauna, India has the unique distinction of being the only country in the world which cultures all the five known commercial varieties of silk, namely mulberry, tasar, oak tasar, eri and muga. While India ranks second in the world (the first being China) in the production of mulberry and tasar silks, the golden yellow muga silk is endemically Indian. Globally, however, sericulture is being phased out in several developed countries such as Japan and Korea due to economic growth and urbanization. European countries like France, Italy and Spain which used to have a fairly large sericulture industry, are no longer engaged in mulberry planting and silkworm rearing. A similar transformation is being observed with regard to China too in the recent years. In this context, India has the comparative advantages and the potential to develop into a key player in the global marketplace for silk.

Age does not wither non custom stale…

  • Rich brocades of Varanasi and Surat.
  • Luxurious crepes, georgettes and chiffons of Karnataka.
  • Delicate silks of Kashmir.
  • Colorful tie and dyes of Rajasthan.
  • Vibrant patolas of Gujarat.
  • Subtle ikats of Andhra Pradesh and Orissa
  • Grand temple silks of Kancheepuram.
  •  Balucharies of Bengal.
  • Sheer ethnicity of the North-East

India’s silks are infinitely rich in variety. Characterized by unique luster, translucent finish, intricate weaves and rich colour, they are and intrinsic part of the country’s culture and tradition, firmly woven into the very fabric of people’s lives.

 The Basic Strengths of Indian Silk…

  • A large production base – acreage, reeling basins, handlooms and power looms.
  • Well established infrastructure – research and training facilities and institutional support.
  • Rich colours, patterns and designs with the weaving sector.
  • Traditional weaving skills – passed on from generation to generation by master craftsmen.
  • Highly honed, hand spinning skills.
  • Total cocoon and silk production structure in the hands of private sector.
  • Capacity to produce fabrics in infinite variety of designs (ethnic, traditional, and modern) and to supply made-to-order products even in small quantities.
  • Highly amenable to blending with cottons and synthetics alike.
  • High dye and print holding capacity – colour vibrancy and retention.
  • Eco-friendly and low-pollution methods used in the production chain – little use of smoke emitting machinery.
  • Uniqueness of textures, resulting from hand-weaving.
  • Recognized the world over for beauty and quality of hand-beaded silk evening wear and accessories.
  • Familiar name in major world markets for home furnishings, curtains, drapes, upholstery, cushion covers, etc.
  • Availability of a number of competent designers for international haute couture collections.
  • Competitively priced – affordable and durable.
  • And oh! Yes, that feeling nothing else can match!

Indian Silk Industry, a Macro Perspective….

  • Industry size – about Rs. 70 billion.
  • Direct employment – 6.2 million.
  • Production of raw silk – 15,500 tonnes
Annual growth – 10%
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